La Jourdinarie our place in France

 
Well I thought I would take a moment to review the holiday now we are back to the grind of daily life. I find that memories fade very quickly so you get little or no chance to savor them. It is more like “that’s over put it away in a box”. There is a tendency to actually work during vacations as well and I have done it myself. I was on an all day conference call on the 26^th of December one year whilst everyone else was out on snow mobiles. (Note to All of you, you NEVER get the time with your family back)

So back to the holiday

Rome was superb and quieter than expected with no big crowds. It was great just to wander around. A mistake not to check the opening hours of the Sistine Chapel which means we need to go back. A couple of lazy days strolling around in the sunshine with something to marvel at around every corner.

Sorrento was cute with lots of cafes and quiet backstreets and alleyways and a very nice place to be. Pompeii was good but more for the putting the story to the place than what you actually see. The story is one everyone knows the place could do with some more information and possibly reconstruction of some areas to show what it was actually like.

Alexandria was a mix, a little under played and think given its historical importance I sort of expected more. Great Fort and the Story of the original library was always one of those myths you read about. The new library whilst impressive is just a library. There was no 7^th wonder (the lighthouse) but we knew that. We took some time to wander around the local market which was a blast. Maybe we should focus more on this type of vacation as the sights, sounds and smells will stay with me. A little like my first encounter with local markets in Thailand. You have this desire to do it and a fear of what you will see, but that is the fun seeing how ordinary people go about their lives. No blackberry for the guy selling herbs from his bike and no iPod for the crew scaling fish on their stall.

Port Said was more of a stopping point but the port was something else ferries darting across full of locals trying to dodge these huge container ships and bulk carriers. Not much else really. We stopped to pick up the overnight Cairo pyramid tourists. A word about the pyramids don’t go on am 8 hour trip and spend 7 of them on a coach. Stay overnight if you can. For me these are probably the best thing I have ever seen. I have seen grander and more ornate historical sights (Royal palace in Bangkok, Petra in Jordan, Mayan temples in Belize) but nothing has given me that rush of “how the hell did they………: they need several hours of staring at to be appreciated and take some time to go to the Museum of Cairo for the artifacts they are a mess but worth the effort. If you only get the chance to see one thing in you travels my recommendation will always be the pyramids.

Jerusalem was very very interesting. We did not really get time to draw breath and the biblical sights whizzed by so fast it was difficult to get a sense if their real importance. This is the place where the stories become real. All those religious lessons and bible reading were actually about “real” people with real lives and placing them amongst the sites gives you a funny feeling. As a child I spend quite an amount of time in churches (mum’s influence) but actually be there and see and stand in the places I have heard about so often was, well not sure what it was so I will have to go back and see them again to find out. As for safety I don’t think it is as bad as it is painted. Yes the local cultures do not get along and yes there are lots of point where you question if anyone is actually practicing what they preach however I can honestly say there was no issues and would suggest that it is less of an issue for tourists so don’t let it put you off.

Kusidasi and Ephesus well what can I say Ephesus was somewhat disappointing. Whilst it is elaborate in the Roman style it lacked a lot due to the poor restoration of the main area. The terrace area which is an extra gives a good view of houses of the time and these are far more interesting than the general site. The amphitheater at 25,000 seats is the biggest I have ever seen but that is not enough for me to tell you to rush there. Kusidasi has certainly come on over the last 10 years and is now a somewhat pleasant place and well organized. No local beaches so people come to shop and stay elsewhere.

Patmos is one of those idyllic Greek islands and if you can stand doing nothing for a couple of weeks then go for it. I could probably do 3 days then I would get itchy feet. It evokes everything you see in those pictures of simple Greek life. Slightly laid back so a little slower then the rest of the world and possibly it does not care much about that. Certainly worth a look

Santorini was just as we had left it several years ago. Like Patmos nothing really changes and it is up to you to slip into the rhythm. Some great Gold shopping and really good views. We spent two weeks here in 2001 and I think it was our last real do nothing holiday together. The artists shop which I though was expensive then still is but this time I don’t go away regretting not buying so both he and I are happy.

Athens, this was actually only port to airport so another place I need to return to. I never really had a desire to do Athens but think I should so it can go back on the list of “places we need to go when we get time“.

Hope all this is useful and I am not rambling to myself. We had a great time overall and whilst not everything was marvelous it was all a great experience and we come away slightly different. My Mother used to tell me “everything colors your life” which I took to mean the places you go and the people you meet add a richness to you so we will continue to add more color as we go along.

Now where to go for Christmas Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

Well we are over all the tours and the excitement and are winding sown the vacation. Today it is Patmos a very small Greek island. St John was exiled here when he was caught preaching in Ephesus. He lived in a cave half way up the main hill and it was here that he wrote “Revelations” the last book of the New Testament. There is a monastery on the top of the hill which looks more like a fort which says a lot about the time it was built.

We are not doing any tours we are just going to wander up and down the front. Greek islands have this slow pace which you cannot escape. You just fall into the rhythm and your steps become easier as you drift around. We stop for coffee we go into a Jewelers where the owner only says good morning, none of this let me help you spend your money or tugging your arm or where do you come from etc. In fact he never even got up from his chair.

We settle in one of the little restaurants on the front looking for “Tzatziki” and find ourselves in the only “authentic” local café which does not serve it. Not a problem the host apologies and points us towards a place he says serves the best on the island, he suggests we come back for our deserts as he has plenty. We move 40 yards and sit down again order our tzatziki, a feta cheese salad and some Saganaki (fried Cheese) Greek Style. Probably much more than we needed as we have eaten far too much on this trip and most if not all of it excellent. There is however something about simple fresh food which warms the soul and here it is. Something they make every day and have perfected over thousands of hot summer days. Fresh and simple remember that, it is always a winner.

We stagger back to the ship a little fuller and more relaxed. I notice a small van selling fresh fish with two sun dried old men doling out stuff from the back, two young girls sat in the van playing and a cat wandering around looking sometimes hopefully and sometimes suspiciously around the activity.

Dinner is relaxed and as the US Open tennis has started we retire to watch it in the cabin. Tomorrow is Santorini a place we know well as we spent two weeks there several years ago.

Santorini is quite a spectacular place to visit. It was formed after a massive volcanic eruption several millennium ago and the myth has it that Atlantis is somewhere around here. It is very dry and the houses are either perched on top of or hanging perilously to the side of an outcrop. They are white and blue and the story is that when the Germans occupied the place in WWII they banned the national flag so the locals painted their houses in the White and Blue of their national flag. No idea if the story is true or not but it fits well.

When we were here we saw a shop which was part Jewelry and part Art. There was a necklace I should have bought at the time which I have remembered and regretted not purchasing almost every day since. We did the same in Savannah with a picture we saw on the first visit and had to go back 4 years later to buy. So we know where we are going.

Off the ship at 10:30 and onto the pier 10 minutes later we join the queue for the cable car. The other option is to take a donkey ride up the very steep slope which isn’t going to happen. The cable car is enough of an adventure sort of a cross between transportation and a Disney ride it bumps and sways and the white marks Judi made in the back of my hand with her nails should heal in a day or two. We find our shop right where we left it 7 years ago which is a relief and wander around it. Less jewelry than last time but the art is still stunning. A parody of fish movement in metal and glass. We don’t buy just yet as we have all day. We want to savory this for a while and wander off for a coffee and to find another jeweler with lots of necklaces of which there are many.

We complete our search and leave one very very happy man behind as we walk out with both necklace and earrings for Babe made by a local artisan. Certificates and tax rebate form in hand and back to our art shop. There we meet the artist who was not there earlier. It was a one man show first time around but not we see crates marked up for the Intercontinental in Dubai and some for places in New York so it seems he is doing ok. We purchase and wander back down the narrow whitewashed streets full of smiles. Approaching the cable car we decide walking down the donkey path would be ok. Well walking will be better than riding. It took 40 minutes but it seemed far safer than either of the alternatives.

Tonight we must pack but not just yet so we can have our last dinner which will be full of Highs and Lows and baked Alaska which for some reason is a tradition.

Not quite an early start today so I have time to write my blog on the deck. Not a bad idea as I am near the coffee machine however I am in sight of the Joggers on the deck above and they keep crossing my eye line. The normal group going at different paces all except one who is Jogging backwards, yes backwards. What one earth he thinks he is doing. I move away so I can concentrate and end up near one of the doorways. Like yesterday I greet each person passing with a cheery “Hello there, nice day, enjoy” with mixed results. I am even greeting the crew which I think is unnerving them. It takes around 30 minutes to complete then back to get Judi and a quick breakfast.

10:30 sees us in the lounge with our stickers E-1 today. A small bus so only around 20 people for this tour of Ephesus. The guide is young and a little nervous. This ability to use the phrase “you know” more than one in a sentence is remarkable. The People you know used to live here you know and you know they were very you know sophisticated. He gets better as he settles into his rhythm. The site is 30 minutes away so an easy drive. It used to be a small port but it silted up however it remains an iconic name amongst ancient ruins.

It is impressive but a little ragged, I think it could do with a little more organization. It does have some impressive mosaics and frescos but these are not generally on view they are in a part sectioned off. We get in because we have paid they little extra. They do show how detailed people were in those days. A swimming pool kitchens, bathrooms. All quite well preserved, all of the archeological work being done by some Austrian university. There is a two story library which was at some point supposed to rival Alexandria but of course fate is cruel and everything was lost. There is an extremely impressive amphitheater which seats 25,000 so by far the biggest I have seen. Shame they have been using it for rock concerts and the acoustic vibrations had a detrimental effect on it so there are repairs going on. I say going on I could only see two workers both asleep under a tree but there was a big crane.

I am not actually disappointed in Ephesus but I have to say they could do a lot more with it. There are many stones with inscriptions on just lying around and you can tell some of the restoration work was poorly thought out. columns change shape half way up, cornices do not match so it looks more like some form of leggo set. That said the physical size of the amphitheater and the mosaic floors (if you can get in to see them) are possibly worth the entrance fee and it is only a stones throw from Kusidasi where we are docked and we are soon back there for a little retail therapy. I have to say the place is very neat and tidy and a welcome relief from the harassment we have suffered at some other places. It is possibly only the culture difference but I don’t appreciate being bullied into buying something. There is a repetitive nature to the shopping, Jewelers, tiles, clothes, cafe, jewelers, tiles clothes, cafe. so it becomes slightly monotonous but the streets are clean and nobody is grabbing hold of you (I really hate vendors grabbing my arm). We make a couple of minor purchases for the flat, Judi says it needs some stuff to make it look like ours as right now it looks bare. Bright tiles and hand painted bowls should do.

Back for an hour or so lounging around. The two piece band is hard at it although nobody notices. They play on deck in the casino lounge and in the upper cabaret lounges every day and I am in constant amazement at the singers fortitude in standing on deck in the full sun and have watch as she gets more and more of a tan.

Dinner is interesting as we comment on the American Open Tennis championships which started this week. The provokes a debate on players and interestingly the English couple really seem to dislike Andy Murray because he is Scottish and the Irish couple do not like Roger Federer because he is Swiss. Now neither have met them and of course it is of no consequence what these tennis players do. They just play tennis they do not dictate Governmental policy or actually do anything bad or are troublesome about anything they just play tennis every now and again. What I found fascinating was how someone can form an opinion about another person based only on conjecture. How can you hate someone for no good reason. You can “Prefer” someone else and even support someone else but there is no reason to violently dislike. I point this out because over the last few days we have met lots of cultures which hate other cultures for things which did not happen to them themselves and on occasion may have happened centuries ago. In fact some may never of really happened or may have been distorted through the telling of the stories and yet here we are 2009 with the same thing. Maybe we have not moved on very far at all.

This got me thinking do “I” dislike anyone. Well there was a man I said I would never work with again (a long time ago) that was because I always had the impression he was a little violent. I added another a while back because it seemed he could only be right by making everyone else wrong which got tiring after a while. I have never met anyone who was “always right” and probably never will but we live in hope.

An easy day tomorrow Patmos a Greek island not much there so only a gentle stroll planned.

I mean a bus full not a full bus. I think they gathered all the “interesting” people and put them on the same coach. Not quite sure why “we” are on it but it is too late it is moving. They is a guy at the back who when he is not taking pictures he is brushing his hair, no too weird but every time he gets off or on the bus he gets the bush out and checks it in the wing mirror. We have Uncle buck in front of us with his asian wife and two girls between 12-15 you can tell this by the fact that they really don’t want to be there and their only question is how many stops before we are back at the boat (that was at 7:30 am). There are a couple from Ecuador who don’t speak English. A lady who covers half the aisle when she does eventually get into a seat. Various walking sticks including the veteran and his party still dressed in matching shirts, our guy from breakfast and lots of people with “personal” requirements for seating lighting and air conditioning. A couple of african ladies in what could be their local dress (that will be hot today). Two Portuguese chaps, now Judi and I used to have a code “those guys look Portuguese” well these guys are and look it . They would more likely be noted as “friends of Dorothy” these days. I make a note to check the outside of the coach to see if it has “League of Nations” painted on the side.

We start off ok docked in Haifa conquered by Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, Ottomans, Egyptians and the English (we at least built 2 oil refineries which we left behind ) and on the road a little early although it does not take long for the guide to start a rant against anyone local but not Jewish (if you get my drift) he is not entirely biased though he has a pop at the new immigrants from Eastern Europe as well. Someone at the front finds the coach has blinds and like shot everyone is pulling blinds down as fast as they can. I stop uncle buck pulling ours down by explaining I have come a long way and spent a lot of money to see this. He is not impressed he wants to be one of the herd of people traveling through the holy land not actually seeing any of it. They could be on a London tube for all the difference it makes. The Guide gamely carries on, something about capturing the Golan heights. After only ten minutes the more elderly have fallen asleep given they now have little or no daylight. I can see a long day stretching out in front on us.

We stop to take a look at the Sea of Galilee which is of course not a sea but a lake and not particularly big one at that. It is hot as usual and the haze has not lifted so it is very bright. We get all the facts about size and volume and how the water keeps going down and when it was captured (sorry liberated) from the Syrians. The guide takes us to the waters edge where the more devout amongst us of start to try and paddle, he attempts to stop them but once moving the herd is hard to stop and we wait 20 minutes for people to put shoes and socks back and climb up the slope.

Off to the next stop. The place where Peter (the Simon called Peter and his mother in law) lived. A church build over it seems the norm. The bricks underneath show a small round one room place nothing but rubble really but at least it is preserved for now. Next stop Capernaum where Jesus lived for a while and the white synagogue the white was unusual as the local rock is black. A quick trot around for some and a slow stagger for many. We eventually head off to see the river Jordan, not before the guy at the back has fixed his hair and the girls had asked when will we get to go shopping.

The River Jordan experience starts with a detailed explanation of what the gift shop has to offer and what is made locally. (so the girls get an early wish come true, not). We wander through once the spiel is done, “and don’t forget if you spend more than $110 you get 15% back on the tax duty” is the final comment. The River is by no means big in fact at this point it resembles a big stream however it is there and it is special. This is a place where people flock to get baptized and is regarded as one of those special biblical places. So much so the Ecuadorians rush passed us and are next spotted in long white gowns clothes tucked under their arms marching down to the river bank. They must be on a do it yourself kick as there are no clergy down there but interestingly there are lots of catfish, (go figure). There are people coming up the bank dripping wet and smiling which is heartening. Young and old and some singing. Now that’s better something which makes people feel good and does no harm to others.

We are on a timer although cats can not tell the time so we leave when the rest are shoo’d out of the shop. Lots of bags are hoisted onto the bus but none for us. Judi is smiling though as she saw a Nativity set like the one she bought from an Arab stall at 4 times the price in this Kibbutz (now would you believe that) so she now feels comfortable with her negotiating skills. I say negotiating I swear the guy had a tear in his eye as he handed it over to her.

On to lunch which was ok not bad enough to worry us but I am never good with these communal long tables and buffets which are there to serve several hundred people. The shepherd manages to round up his lost sheep by checking the shop and we are off again this time to Nazareth. we have been talking to some American ladies one for whom has lost her hat and thinks uncle buck is wearing it. I have to say it does not flatter him so I doubt that his daughters would have let him buy it and it possibly why they have refuse to walk next to him all day.

Nazareth the place where Jesus lived and worked in my mind was a quiet village. Not so now it ia actually a medium sized town inhabited by a mainly Arab population however the Israelis are now settling most of the Eastern European immigrants there to boost the population or so our Guide says. He gives up after 5 minutes explanation as with the blinds down and full of food two thirds of the bus is dozing. I watch the countryside roll by. It is a little sparse with lots of olive trees and where cultivated there are mango and banana and dates being grown in nice neat rows. There are also huge sunflower fields ready for harvest so no bright yellow Van Gogh pictures here.

We literally jump off the bus and are taken through a bazaar to the “Church of the Annunciation” which is very different in one respect. It is devoted to Mary mother of Jesus and has little or no references to him. A sort of a female church and very nice it is. Lots of different mosaics from different contries depicting Mary each stylized so the Japanese and the Ukrainian are as they see her so dressed and looking like one of their own. The Ecuadorians take some finding as they have joined a congregation hearing a mass which is going on and do not want to leave before it finishes, now that is faith.

Next door is the Church of Saint Joseph much smaller and supposedly built over the carpenters shop where he worked. Probably conjecture but those who want to believe can. A short walk down to return to the bus reveals an interesting position. A relative of Sal-Adin is buried close by and they want to erect a mosque however muslim law decrees the mosque should be the tallest building which would put is at odds with the Church of the Annunciation so they fight over it and have done so for a while. So not much tolerance here either.

We wind our way back to the port via mount Carmel and some great views over the town. A very modern place and somewhere which is still quite bright and new. Onto the ship and this time only 2 people are late back to the ship. I wonder if they fine people for being late. Maybe if they introduced a $100 for every 15 minute delay people would pay more attention.

We leave 40 minutes late and that is the end of the Israel part of the trip. Whilst it did nothing to confirm or restore my faith I think it is worth another try and I think I will try a return trip specifically to Jerusalem. Whilst history holds a fascination for me I am not sure we got enough time to get a real feel for the city and it has much more to offer than a 3 hour yomp through it.

Having experienced the troubles in my own back yard with Ireland I am conscious that peace can not be made at the point of a gun and trust is not easily won but that dialog is the only way. I suppose it is a question of who puts their gun down first.

Ashdod where we dock is really a working port and we dock next to several hundred cars on their way from the far east to Europe. They do not go through the Suez Canal as the rates are too high so they get taken off before get moved overland and back onto the same ship at Ashdod thus avoiding the charges. You would think the Egyptians would be smart enough to reduce the rate and at least get some money. Anyway today we are heading off to Jerusalem possibly the highlight of the tour and a place I have wanted to visit for a long time. Our tour is really only centered around the old city and the more prominent sites.

We are picked up at 7:30 with lots of security and I mean lots these Israelis don’t take chances. They have been fighting someone since the day Israel was declared a state by the UN so they know how to handle themselves. Our guide gives an informative view of the country on our one and a half hour journey into the city. She seems more than a little biased against the Arab population maybe with good reason but at first hearing it does sound a little harsh and somewhat “I’m right so you must be wrong” sort of scenario. Out first stop is the Mount of Olive’s which is the place all people of the Jewish faith want to be buried. The Jews are still waiting for the Messiah who is supposed to throw open the Mercy gates and the graves packed all along the mount face this way. The gates are bricked up so when he come it is liable to be spectacular. We are interrupted several times by the Arab hawkers trying to sell postcards (does anyone buy postcards any more) or have camel rides. They were a little heavy handed and unnecessarily loud even when asked to hang on. Not the most subtle sales people if they think they can bully people into purchasing things.

We get a briefing of the City of David which is much smaller than I imagined. The old city walls whilst spectacular cover a small site which has not only been expanded multiple times but also torn down and built over by which ever group captured the city last. The Romans were responsible for tearing down the walls leaving only a part of the western wall now commonly known as the Wailing wall. This in itself is not particularly holy however it is the closest place Jews can get to their holy place on the other side which is in Arab hands. we stand and watch and push little notes into the crevasses of the wall with our hopes and wishes. This area is specifically Jewish and their link through history to their heritage and identity.

We move off not far to find the Via Dolorosa which marks the Catholic “stations of the cross” which we follow. This one is a little strange for me being Catholic as I have known the stations all my life and to physically be there and to follow the winding path is really weird. The route is not particularly long and ends inside the “Church of the holy Sepulcher” which is built over the site of the crucifixion and burial of Jesus. This place is strange indeed. One because you naturally think the crucifixion happened outside so building a church over it somehow spoils the vision. The other is that the church houses six or seven denominations of christian faiths. Catholics, Coptic, Armenian and several others each has their space and style and it shows clearly how even with the same spiritual link how people can differ in their interpretation. (I think even the priests have problems, YouTube the place as I think there was a fight between the clergy only a couple of months back). The place is heaving with people from the different denominations all rooting for their particular version or Religion and nothing like the peace and tranquility you would have expected given the reverence of the location. If this is truly where Jesus died you have to wonder if his preaching are really being followed and that we all share the common bond or as it would seem that everyone is trying to be the dominant force at the expense of the others. It sort of spoiled it a little for me.

The Garden of Gethsemane on the other hand was a quiet garden with some ancient Olive trees. It is easy to imagine the trees in front of me have been here for a couple of thousand years and the simple church on the side was more like my expectations. A place more for quiet reflection and one of peace and tranquility.

All the while our guide is informing us the border used to be at this point and that point and those holes in the wall are shell marks. There are a lot of soldiers on the streets all looking pretty relaxed more a deterrent than actually expecting trouble. Israel has conscription so all men and women spend some time in the military hence most of the ones we see with their machine guns casually slung over their shoulders are what I would describe as kids. There was one ally way in the bazaar where the Jewish sector ends and the Arab one begins where I saw a soldier with his pistol out and poised ready for anything “unexpected” one learns to protect oneself if you had been through what they have in their history.

Lunch is at a Kibbutz which is a collective farm. There were set up to encourage people to emigrate to the new state as well as to cultivate the land. They have done an extremely good job in the 30 – 40 years and the land is well tended and managed. Lunch is good and at the end we get taken to a vantage point to see Bethlehem. Again you really don’t expect it to be that close but it is. Back on the coach and off to King David’s tomb (thats the David and Goliath one) and the site of the last supper. Well not quite the site but they think it was there so they built a church just in case and incorporated a mosque as well.

We round off the day with a sort of tour back through the countryside which is on the one hand fascinating and on the other disappointing. The Jews are building a huge concrete wall to “manage” the more sensitive areas and keep Jews and Arabs apart. We are confidently told the wall does not go all the way and when it ends there is electrified barbed wire. We are also quickly informed the current is not meant to harm just inform the nearest army post of something happening. Sorry but barbed wire is barbed wire electrified or not. We pass a couple of check points and given our status as tourists we are waved through. Not so for others and there is a line of cars who are going through the daily ritual of being “processed” which I think is a euphemism for being delayed.

I am by no means a historian but it is very clear that what ever fate has dealt to the Jews throughout the centuries this time they mean to keep what they have.

I suppose whilst I am sort of fulfilling a bit of a dream on this leg of the trip it also serves to shatter some illusions. This was a battlefield throughout the ages and to some degree still is. The three faiths Muslim, Jewish and Christian all purport to have teaching of peace and harmony and tolerance. What I saw today did not lead me to believe that these wishes will come true any time soon. It seemed people were prepared to go to any length to defend their particular inch of ground even if they have no way of proving that this particular inch is the right one or not. I think that they are quarreling over the physical aspect and have long forgotten the spiritual aspect of the faith they say they are serving. There was no laughter today no serenity no peaceful coexistence.

Lets hope someone reads the note I left in the wall.

So here we are at Yoga there are only two of us today our friend is staying overnight in Cairo so our instructor has only Judi and I to contend with. Still doing circuit training rather than slow methodical stretching but at least I am getting used to it. The breathing colors at the end still concerns me he keeps say to block everything out but all I can hear is the thud thud thud of the treadmills behind us and a guy bellowing “Y’ULL HAVE TO SHOUT I’VE GOT MY IPOD ON” so the colors I am breathing are beginning to resemble a Jackson Pollok (Google it).

We do not dock until noon so after breakfast I take the opportunity to get a haircut which will save me having to learn the word in Russian when I get home. Hanging around the sun deck I can see the Joggers on the track above me. I noted the other day 13 laps equals a nautical mile (1,852 yards which will come in useful later). There are 8 to 10 people in various stages of movement so semi-professionals some almost walking. They are all going the same way bar one, why is there always one not only is he going in the opposite direction to everyone else he can’t seem to make up his mind if he is going on the inside or the outside so he upsets the rhythm of each one he passes. I am sure they are not amused but seem too polite to tell him. There garb is varied and there is one old sun bronzed chap in dayglow yellow speedo’s who is striding with purpose. Not for me I think so I head off for the bottomless pit call the coffee station.

As we enter the dock there are lots of things to see. A couple of small religious sites a small harbor for the tiny fishing vessels we have been passing for the last hour or so. Lots of big container ships and bulk carriers. a huge floating dry dock and a ship building yard. Port Said owes everything to the Suez Canal and has prospered and suffered with both. During its early life it was the center of attention then after the abdication of the last Egyptian king and the subsequent Suez crisis and WWII it got bombed heavily. The Arab Israeli war saw the canal closed for several years so not much luck for the town. We are only stopping here to pick up the people who stayed in Cairo and will only be here 6 or 7 hours. Judi and I decide to take a stroll into the town behind the security wall even though everyone says there is not much out there. As it happens everyone is correct. There really is nothing endearing about the place and several other brave tourists like us can confirm. If we had gone on a scavenger hunt we would not have brought many treasures back.

The highlight really is to sit on the top deck and watch the big ships glide gently by and little car ferries trying to pass in front and behind them and the tugs pushing pulling and nudging things int the right place. The pilot boats the police boats the fishing boats and a host of others all performing a little water ballet. I spent quite a while and a good few camera clicks recording it all until Judi insists we try again at the trivia quiz. We pass a lone Jogger on the track and it is damn hot today so I am surprised someone has the mental determination for it. We have to wait in the Casino lounge for the quiz master who has decided it was being held on a different deck and whilst we wait we pair up with a brother and sister from LA. Eventually we get started and are stuck on the number of years the Berlin wall stood when their parents turn up. The girl asks her father if he knows, she asks him in Russian which was a bit of a surprise as the kids are as American as apple pie. Anyway he says it was done by krushchev and around 30 years I suggest only 20 but am shouted down (in the end I was closer though). Now there is a question how long is a nautical mile and given I am the only one to offer an answer it goes down on the pad. I am right of course and also correct that Mr Birdseye invented the Freezer but we still only get 11 correct so an improvement but not enough to get use the coverted luggage tags. Somehow I think we will be there until we do.

Back to the cabin and the jogger is still pounding away I wonder if he has done the 13 laps for a nautical mile yet. Our breakfast guy is also on the track but somehow I am not sure he can make it round once. He is happy enough taking his usual short steps with his stick and still smiling. You just have to hand it to some people they just keep going.

The gang are back together for dinner which is excellent as usual but the service is beginning to deteriorate a little. It is taking longer for them to complete things even handing out menus and clearing plates. Maybe they are short staffed or maybe they have extra tables but it takes us an extra 45 minutes to get through the meal. I am going to let it slide given how good the food is. (well for now anyway). We all have to prepare for a big day tomorrow Jerusalem and Nazareth. Top of my list for this trip and something I was never sure we would get around to so a lot of anticipation plus the clocks go forward again tonight so one hour less sleep so I had best get cracking.

Day 6 When did I stop worshipping the Sun

Yoga is almost the same as yesterday except with a slight swell we do not try the balance positions which I think is a good thing. Even on flat ground I can not stand on one leg so on a boat it is just farcical. Managed to put the docket out so we at least got tea and coffee and the 3 cups I had started to kick in with the first stretch. did I mention there are only 3 of us in the class so 4 with the instructor “Bradley” (A made up name I think) so we constitute half of the lesson. This is the last one for a couple of days so lets make the most of it and Stretcccccch. I survive and stagger off for breakfast, lucky for me it is on the same deck, Toast boiled eggs (for a change) and coffee. We find a table in fact given how small this boat is it is a little surprising that what ever meal we are at there are tables available. On the Alaska cruise we would get food and then wander around for 10 minutes whilst it got cold searching for somewhere to sit. (there is probably some mathematical ratio for tables to people to time somewhere). The old guy is there before us but we have nearly finished by the time he actually gets his butt on the chair.

We have a spa day pass today which means we get to sit at the front of the boat where no children or bands are allowed. A sort of quiet area, it is quite and also a sun trap so a lot of time is spend trying to get out of the sun. Now I don’t remember when I changed from wanting to sit in the sun to wanting to avoid sitting in the sun. I remember times gone by when I though the best possible day would be lying on a deckchair slowly frying myself. Interestingly Egypt where we are heading actually worshipped the Sun as a religion and there are some followers on the ship. Greased up they lie prone only stirring to reapply more bronzer and to turn themselves over to baste another portion. Some of them will need to turn many times given the girth or physical size. These days given a choice I will walk on the shady side of the street and where possible avoid direct sunlight. I am not particularly worried about skin cancer or premature aging (think it is too late for that) I just don’t like it any more.

Heading back across the deck for lunch my old guy is trying to lower himself onto a lounger I help him down but now I am worried he will get sunstroke trying to get himself back up ( I will check on him on the way back). If you think we are eating all the time you are correct that’s what you do on cruises. Food is available 24*7. I must have been in the US too long as I put fruit on the same plate as my Mexican chili beef and takeo. Think I need the fruit more. Our guy is stood up by the time we pass again so he must have started to rise as soon as I helped him down.

Back in the suntrap we play shuffle chair for a while trying to avoid the sun until it is time for the wine tasting. A small diversion which gets us back inside in the air-conditioning. There are six selected wines and none of them are French, Kendal Jackson, Wolfblass, Moldavi? (spelling) and a couple of Chilean (Chilean chardonnay is good and worth a try these days for the price) The talk is informative and the handouts even more so. We end with a desert wine which would be great after dinner but not so good at 3:45 in the afternoon. I decide the spa is just a little too bright and decline to return. Judi say s she has to go as she has another spa appointment, who would have guessed. She will be getting loyalty and christmas cards from them this year I am sure. I head back to the cabin to finish my book, The second of the cruise. I normally only read novels on holiday not at home there are too many distractions and even when I read it is normal none fiction (not sure why they are not just labeled “fact”). So to have completed 2 books already for me is good. One about a swimmer who encounters a young whale and the second a book on short essays by the lady who took over from Alistair Cook (google him) who did those wonderful “Letters from America” which I and my mother used to tune in and listen to so many years ago. Even when I was no longer at home we would both listen and discuss when I called.

I went to post yesterdays blog in the top lounge only to find Team Dominican Republic holding another party which looks like it has been in full swing for quite a while. There is lots of Latin music and dancing, Kids and elders everyone is having fun and the bar staff are on their toes keeping up with them. It is good to see a group who are taking their enjoyment so seriously. I know they will be back here after dinner and continue into the small hours. It does not seem to impact them at all and they are always around at breakfast recounting the great time they had the previous evening. (note to self check the place out for a holiday)

I found some of the photos taken of us at “Formal” night and not as bad as I expected so need to start saving as these do cost you. Dinner is again excellent I have Rib eye steak and Judi salmon. (Elaine no pictures of this meal but plenty of others check the web photo album). We are engaged in conversation with out table guests and time flies fast. We are “encouraged” to leave by people clearing up around us, where did the last 2 hours go. Not ready to retire yet we meander to the lounge where several drinks later we decide enough and turn in all a little tired and emotional. There was an announcement late this afternoon telling us the clocks were being put back an hour tonight now we only put them forward last night which is weird. We conclude that as it is Ramadan there mush be some deviation on the daylight savings. Whatever it means an extra hours sleep and given we are not on muster until 8:30 am.

I am sweating and out of breath so maybe not as quiet as I had hoped. I am in the middle of what is supposed to be the Yoga class but the speed this guy is working us you might think it is Pilates. My yoga is more relaxed but right now I seem to be in some form of circuit training. Up down Stretch, downward dog, plank, squat, pigeon, camel, etc and did I mention it was only 8 am. So much for a quiet day. It didn’t start that well either it seems “I” forgot to hang out the morning tea and coffee sign so I had to scurry off and get it myself. When you do it yourself you can only carry one of each so limited caffeine which is not helping. The session ends with us breathing colors whatever that is Blue, Ggreen, Yellow, Orange and finally Red. I am sure it helps but my mind is not in a relaxed state so apart from the stretching I feel limited benefits.

Once over it is time for breakfast which means dodging the ditherers. The people who stand staring at food unable to make a decision fried or scrambled. white bread or brown. This is made worse by the sheer volume of options available. From steak to Ice cream. I am happy with toast and a couple of eggs and lots and lots of coffee. There is one guy who is now a feature of the dining as he is very frail and it takes several minutes for him to lower himself into a chair and even longer to get up again. I don’t say this in jest but to note anyone can cruise and well done to those who do. We will all be old at sometime and if I still have the gumption to travel around the world like this guy then I will have good reason to be pleased with myself. It is all to easy to get frustrated with people as they age but remember what ever life you are living it is because someone before you built it. They are not all national hero’s most just ordinary people doing ordinary jobs but all part of what ever system or process which allows you to live the lifestyle of your choice and do what ever you chose to do right this minute. Next time you see one say thanks or help them along, your turn will surely come.

After Breakfast we go and find a shady spot on the deck, this lasts for 30 minutes as we plan to go to a lecture on Alexandria which is our next port of call. I know little about this place so the idea of someone giving me the low down saves me the reading. Jo the host is funny and a little irreverent but informative so worth the effort. He does go on and on about the sunsets too long though. I think to myself the ones I saw at lake Titicaca will live with me forever (the pictures should be on Picassa under Peru) and seriously doubt these will be anywhere close.

Back to the shady deck for 30 minutes then the ping pong tournament starts, click, click,,, click, click,,,, click click,,, The Cruise champion is crowned inside 40 minutes ( I think he is semi professional) and order is resumed and other 30 minutes and it is time for lunch. Think the old guy has not quite finished breakfast but game as ever he is trying to sit down to the Chinese buffet.

Back to the not so shady spot and drag the chairs around a bit, 30 minutes and the water volleyball starts, The pool can accommodate around 20 people so 2 teams of 5 each thrashing around bumping into each other is possibly dangerous but it all ends fairly well. Then the band strikes up. I say band I mean a singer and a bloke on some computerized machine which plays backing tracks. The singer stands in the full sun which makes her a brave girl indeed as she will fry.

Judi is off now she has booked some appointments at the spa. This gives me the opportunity to move down a few decks in lie under one of the lifeboats in the shade. There I manage to write yesterdays blog . I get some time to doze until some kids decide it would be a god idea to chase on another up and down the deck. I am more fearful for their safety than the noise and am glad when the parent arrive. It is the pushchair man from yesterday and he herds them back inside.

I head back to the cabin around 6pm. It is formal night so need to dress up. It is also the Captains cocktail party where all the officers are introduced to the guests with brief explanations of what they do. They don’t look comfortable but this is part an parcel of modern cruising. Getting attached to the crew and visa versa is expected to build on the “experience”. A nice idea but I think they should give the officers a little more help as none of them except the Captain look happy about it. On to the photographs and my turn to look unhappy. I prefer to be on the other end on the lens and find it difficult to strike a natural pose. I give it my best shot and we shall see if this one makes its way home with us. On to dinner which again beats expectations our fellow guests are entertaining and all seem to have traveled more than us so we are full of “what did you think of” questions. At the end of dinner one of the waiters is doing tricks with paper napkins and somehow produces an extremely elaborate rose from a piece if tissue. I should have paid more attention as it was something quite spectacular.

On to the lounge for a night cap. Judi vodka I beer which comes in a can but is huge and must be a full pint. Not what I as expecting but hay its a holiday. We chat with some people until the contingent from the Dominican Republic arrive. On mass they file in like they all just stepped off a bus. There must be 60 of them so a few missing. The bar staff have already warned us about them. It seems the previous night they had the bar open until 3:30 am and were dancing none stop. The crew and the DJ are very pleased to see them as nobody likes to work in an empty bar. As soon as the music starts they are up and on the floor. Samba and Marengo seem to be the favorites. We stay for a couple of drinks until I remember we are crossing a time zone tonight which makes out 8am Yoga calls actually a 7am class, what joy.

So much for a quiet day at sea.